The Cheese Lover’s Guide to Goat Cheese
Behind the RindJUL 31, 2024
Goat cheese has found its way into the hearts, kitchens, and stomachs of cheese lovers around the world. In the United States, what most people know as goat cheese is fresh chèvre, that ubiquitous, tangy little log. But there’s a whole world of goat cheese to taste and discover. Allow us to be your guide through some goat’s milk basics and the wide-ranging types of goat cheese you can find in our cheese case (from blue to brie to gouda). Plus, our tips for getting creative with goat cheese in your cooking.
GOAT’S MILK VS. COW’S MILK
You wouldn’t mistake a goat for a cow, and the same holds true for their milk and the cheeses made from it—they're quite distinct! First, there’s the color. If you look across the cheese case at Murray’s, you’ll notice that cheeses made with goat’s milk are often bright white, while cow’s milk cheeses often have a yellow hue. Cows are more sedentary, so the beta carotene they consume while grazing remains unused and ends up in their milk. Goats are much more active—climbing, exploring, looking for food—so they convert their beta carotene into vitamin A, which helps them heal from injuries. That means much less beta carotene in the milk, resulting in a pure white color.
What about health benefits? Despite some misconceptions, goat’s milk and cow’s milk have a similar fat content. Goat cheese can sometimes feel lighter on the palate simply because of a difference in fat structure. So, you should enjoy goat cheese because it’s delicious; not because it’s necessarily better for you than other cheeses. (Goat’s milk, however, does contain less lactose than cow’s milk!)
TYPES OF GOAT CHEESE
Let’s get into the chèvre of it all. “Chèvre” is French for goat and for goat cheese. It’s often used to refer to the most popular version—fresh goat cheese—but it can refer to any cheese made with goat’s milk. And goat’s milk cheeses come in many kinds: a crumbly log, a wrinkly round, a creamy blue, a firm wedge. You may be surprised by the flavors that can develop within these different styles—goat cheeses are as diverse as they are delicious.
Fresh
The little log that’s tangy and lactic; a bit chalky and creamy but able to crumble. The vibrant flavor comes from its youth (it’s unaged and rindless), as well as from capric acid in goat’s milk. At its worst, it can be unpleasantly sour, but when well-made by trusted cheesemakers like Vermont Creamery and Lively Run, it’s bright, balanced, and irresistible.
Brie & Creamy
Here’s where the flavors start to deviate from the acidic punch of fresh chèvre, which will appeal to many who think they don’t like goat cheese. Soft, bloomy rind goat cheeses—in the style of brie—can be nearly as mild as cow’s milk brie, with a milky sweetness and light citrus notes. They range from very delicate in flavor, like Chèvre d’Argental, to wheels with a touch of earthiness, like FireFly Farms’ Merry Goat Round.
Loires (& Similar)
Known for lush farmland and châteaux, France’s Loire Valley is the land of goats, home to distinctive young goat cheeses in a variety of shapes, with wrinkly, sometimes ash-coated rinds. Like brie-style cheeses, they’re moist and soft, but instead of the texture of brie, there’s a cakey interior and gooey creamline. The flavors can lean a little funkier, with more grassy or minerally notes. For an authentically French experience, go for Selles-sur-Cher or Valençay (aged according to tradition in Murray’s Cheese Caves) or try an artisanal American take with Blakesville Creamery’s Shabby Shoe.
Stinky & Washed Rind
There aren’t many washed rind goat cheeses, which makes them rare gems. These cheeses are washed in brine (sometimes containing beer, wine, or spirits) to create that signature funk and sticky orange rind. Blakesville Creamery washes Afterglow in cherry-flavored beer, while Italian Capriolina is washed in a saltwater brine. Both could be categorized as just moderately stinky—worth a try for funk lovers and those who are a bit funk-shy.
Aged
Think you don’t like goat cheese? Try a longer-aged wheel! These range from semi-firm to hard and encompass a range of styles, from cheddar to Alpine to gouda and more. These cheeses vary greatly and are made using different processes, but what they have in common is that their age allows any harshness or acidity in the goat’s milk to mellow out. Lively Run’s Finger Lakes Gold is nice and buttery; Spanish Montealva has a clean, lemony flavor; Murray’s Cave Aged Carpenter’s Wheel is nutty like any good Alpine; and Young Goat Gouda’s caramel notes make it eat like candy.
Blue
Yes, there are goat’s milk blues! Adding blue cultures allows cheesemakers to coax out unexpected flavors from goat’s milk. Like in Lively Run’s Cayuga Blue, delightfully toasty with cocoa notes, and Mitica® Andazul, which is super fudgy and peppery with a lingering sweetness.
What About Feta?
Traditional PDO feta from Greece is primarily made with sheep’s milk, but it can include up to 30% goat’s milk. Murray’s Feta is 100% sheep’s milk, but we’re also big fans of Meredith Dairy’s Marinated Sheep & Goat Cheese, a luxuriously creamy feta-style cheese from Australia.
GET CREATIVE WITH GOAT CHEESE: COOKING TIPS & RECIPES
While all the cheeses mentioned above would elevate a cheese board, goat cheese is also a kitchen staple. Crumbles of fresh chèvre are a classic addition to salads, like Summer Watermelon Salad or Lemon Vegetable Pasta Salad, and sandwiches, like our Bacon Goat Lettuce Tomato. When heated, fresh goat cheese will soften but not melt or become stretchy. It’s great with eggs and can add some tangy depth to pizzas, calzones, and savory tarts.
Looking to incorporate fresh goat cheese into dessert? It’s always a good idea to add it to cheesecake (best topped with a crown of fresh berries). But if you want something a little less traditional, follow our recipe for Chocolate Hazelnut Moon Pies With Goat Cheese Marshmallow.
While not quite as well-known, other styles of goat cheese are equally versatile in the kitchen. Reach for a cheese like Providence, from Goat Lady Dairy, to shower on top of pasta instead of pecorino or parm. Or swap classic brie for a bloomy goat’s milk round in your next baked brie. You can also follow our recipes for decadent Baked Cheesy Brussels Sprouts Dip (featuring Young Goat Gouda) or meal-worthy Harvest Kale Salad With Honey Goat Gouda.